The Bulang and the Tea Spirit

Each year in mid-April, the Bulang people (Chinese: 布朗族 pinyin: Bulangzu) in the Yunnan province, perform the ancient worship of the tea spirit.

The prince and tribal leader makes this annual trip to the sacred tea mountain.

It is located approximately near Mangjing village in the Lancang county in the Yunnan province.

This 1000 year old ritual is an animist practice, although most of the Bulang are pluralistic - animist-Hinayana Buddhist.

Water is drawn from a sacred mountain spring and transported in large bamboo tubes.

The worship of the spirit of tea and their ancestral prince and princess is usually performed by the village elders and the village leader who is also a prince to the tribe.

The villagers use tea leaves that have been soaked in water to wash the ancestral idols and totems.

This is followed with merriment, feasting, dancing and singing.

The Bulang are a tribe of tea growers. 

They were influential in the domestication of tea for personal consumption and economic viability.

According to history, almost 2000 years ago it was in Mangjing that the cultivation, harvesting and processing of tea began.

The tea culture and practice evolved from chewing the leaves among the Bulang for medicinal purposes, to the savory hot beverage enjoyed by the world.

The millennium old practice of preparing tea among the Bulang is still very much practiced.

Kaocha.

The roasting tea leaves with charcoal in a special container and then it is steeped in water boiling in an iron pot.

This is usually tea served to honored guests.

The tea mountain of the Bulang tribe belong to the entire tribe.

The ancient tea trees range from 500 to 1000 years old.

The tea mountain has endured for generations and is a sustainable income for the entire tribe.

The tea mountain is in a sub-tropical climate.

The altitude ranges from 1500-2300 meters.

They get plentiful rain, has fertile soil, is warm and rich in natural resources like copper, iron, sulphur and rock crystal..

 The Bulang people are an agricultural community.

Their main cash crops include the famous Puer tea, cotton and sugarcane.

They also raise their own lifestock. 

The mountain is covered with virgin forests that yields abundant medicinal herbs like lemongrass and  pseudogingsing that are wild crafted by the tribe.

One of the more unique tea tradition among the Bulang is 'Bamboo Tea.'

 This unique method entails boiling water in a bamboo tube.

When the water in the bamboo tube is boiling at its peak, tea leaves are added.

The tea is infused in the bamboo and served .

One of the other aspects of tea among the Bulang is that they eat it as part of their staple.

It is called SuanCha.

Suancha is served with meals, at weddings and celebrations.

The usual mixture is with salt, chili and garlic accompanied with rice.

Suancha takes anywhere between 6 months to 2 years to complete its underground fermentation process.

The raw tea leaves are cooked for 10 minutes in water.

Then drained and packed into a bamboo tube.

The bamboo is then sealed with red clay and buried in the ground.

After the burial, the ground is watered and kept damp to aide in the fermentation process.

Cup, Ming dynasty, Chenghua mark and period (1465–1487)
China
Porcelain painted in underglaze blue and overglaze enamels; D. 3 1/4 in. (8.3 cm)
Purchase, Mrs. Richard E. Linburn Gift, 1987 (1987.85)

Period: Ming dynasty (1368–1644), Chenghua mark and period (1465–87) 

Culture: China 

Medium: Porcelain painted in underglaze blue and overglaze enamels 

Dimensions: H. 1 5/8 in. (4.1 cm); Diam. of rim 3 1/4 in. (8.3 cm); Diam. of foot 1 1/2 in. (3.8 cm) Classification: Ceramics 

Credit Line: Purchase, Mrs. Richard E. Linburn Gift, 1987 

Accession Number: 1987.85

Metropolitan Museum of Art

This artwork is not on display

History has it written that the promotion of the Jingdezhen kilns were promoted by China's emperor's favorite concubine - Wan Gufei.

The Chenghua doucai - contrasting and contending colors in porcelain decoration that was made famous during the Ming Dynasty.

Highly treasured especially in more refined pieces of ceramics.

The process is a combination of two ceramic ornamental decorating styles.

They are usually outline in Cobalt blue on the greenware (unfired ceramics)

Then it is blue washed.

The ceramic piece is then fired and glazed, the outlines filled with a red, green, yellow or aubergine  overglaze enamels.

It is then fired at a low temperature.

The 'Holy Grail" of Chinese Teacups sold by Sotheby's

The "Holy Grail" of teacups that was made during the Ming Dynasty - 500 years old.

It is said that only 17 of such pieces are in existence, of which only 4 are in private collector's cache and the remaining in museums.

The Rooster cups as they are called, are decorated with a cockeral, hen and chicks grazing amidst a beautiful scene of flowers around the cup.

The porcelain is translucent.

The porcelain cup is painted in underglaze blue and overglaze enamel - Doucai style.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/wires/ap/article-2599498/Ming-Dynasty-chicken-cup-sold-record-36M.html

The Making of a Yixing Teapot

If you are wondering why those tiny Chinese teapots are so pricey, here is what it takes to make one of those teapots. 

You will have a better appreciation for hand made teapots the next time you come across one. 

Tea connoisseurs already know this, but it is always grand to be reminded of what it takes to be someone's favorite teapot.

http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/handbuilding-techniques/poetry-in-motion-a-yixing-teapot-master-creates-an-exquisite-handbuilt-teapot/

Tangerine Puer

This is a puer from Menghai Yunnan, China.

It is an aged puer - approximately 8 years old. 

It is about 35 grams - filled with tea.

The tea is stuffed fresh into the hollowed out Tangerine and allowed to dry in the sun.

It is then left to age within the Tangerine shell.

The tea is steeped with pieces of the Tangerine peel.

This puer is from Yunnan ecological tea garden Xishuanbanna.

Purchased in Singapore.

The puer steeps to a beautiful red liquor with a smooth and slightly citrus.

It is clear and and reflects the light.

It is an excellent tea as a digestive.

The puer does not leave a dusty residue.

Steep about 7-8 grams in about 100 deg F water.

Steep for 5 to 10 seconds - tea wash, discard.

Then add more water for a second immersion for 10 to 20 seconds.

The third immersion at 30 to 40 seconds.

Preference is of course to the tea drinker as to how the strength of the tea is preferred.

‘Cha Dao’ (茶道) - Tea Appreciation

Tea appreciation is more than just tasting the tea.

It is an experience of the entire process.

In Cha Dao (茶道), there are 4 commonly described experiences.

They are 

i. 3 Observations 三看

- dry leaves, liquor and wet leaves

a. Dry leaves

- deals with the aesthetic of the leaves - the way it looks

- the idea is not to judge the book by its cover 

- sometimes the best looking leaves do not yield the best tasting tea

- the holistic approach is the ideal when looking at dry leaves - wait until you experience it in its entirety

b. Liquor

- the tea liquid must not be dull and cloudy

- the tea liquor should and has the ability to prepare the drinkers state of mind

- the appearance of the the tea must be clear, shiny and has the ability to let light through

- the Chinese describe the ideal liquor for green tea to be soothing, lightly oxidized oolongs to be elegant, whites tea as pure, heavily oxidized oolongs as aristocratic and dark teas as calming

c. Wet leaves

- will reveal the character of the tea

- are they tender, shoots with 1 bud or 1 bud 2 leaves

- does it have a fresh color

- it will reveal the level of oxidization through the patches of black or red

- the wet leaves will reveal the brew

ii. 3 Fragrances 三闻

- dry fragrance, hot fragrance and cold fragrance

a. Dry fragrance

- this is experienced at the initial stage of the steeping process

- here we examine the actual leave - whole, pieces, curled, twisted

- the scent of the dry leaves will reveal the freshness, musty or stale

- was it over oxidized - burnt

- more often than not this stage will indicate to the drinker as the whether this tea will go through the steeping stage 

- also the dry leave stage will also be the stage for saleability

b. Hot fragrance

- this is the initial fragrance of the tea upon contact with hot water

- the scent of the tea will be most apparent at this stage

- the scent will reveal if the tea is floral, spicy, fruity

c. Cold fragrance

- there will be lingering scents after the tea is cooled

- these scents are usually overwhelmed during the wet stage but are after notes

- the best way to experience this is when the vessel is empty and cool

- many times the more subtle floral notes will reveal themselves at this stage.

iii. 3 Critiques 三品

- first, second and third critique

- this is more of an assessment than an actual critique

- the harmony- ‘pin yun’ (品韵)of the tea will be revealed at this stage as well

a. First critique

 - will reveal the mastery of the roasting process

- it reveals the 'firing' skill applied to the tea - roasted, baking or sin-drying

- was it overly baked or roasted, how much of rawness or greenness is still preserved

- did it go through  second firing

b. Second critique

-  the assessment here is to allow the tea to be aerated in the drinking process

- how was the texture of the liquid when it flowed over the tongue

- here flavors will be revealed

c. Third critique

 - here we are looking at the harmony of the tea with all the other components that have been uncovered

- it is an amalgamation and culmination of tea components along with visual, flavor, scent, texture and the after taste

iv. 3 Aftertastes 三回味

- first, second and third aftertaste

a. First aftertaste

 - we are looking for the feel of the tea upon the tongue

- the lingering sweetness 

- is there a recurring sweetness that the Chinese call ‘hui gan’ (回甘), this is usually tasted after the initial bitterness and tannins, leaving a soothing and comforting sense

b. Second aftertaste

 - this is a little tricky as it requires the drinker to suck the tea between the teeth

- here what we re seeking is how does it feel on the teeth

c. Third aftertaste

 - this stage is seeking the feeling it gives on the throat and beneath it

- good tea will open the heart and not just the palate

it should have an invigorating feeling that affects the entire body

Why Chinese teacups are small

Gong Fu Cha Dao is about savoring tea.
 It is not merely drinking a hot beverage.

Gong Fu Cha Dao style of steeping tea involves several infusions of the tea.

This is about savoring different types of tea in one sitting - tea tasting/testing.

Ti be able to do this the required cups have to be small.
About the size of half a ping pong ball to be exact 1/2 oz serving capacity.
The idea is to taste multiple teas without having an excessive amount of caffeine and tannins that may effect the body.

These little tea cups are very small when compared with Western standards.
Western cups measure in the amounts of 4 oz up to 18 oz.
The chinese call the larger cups that are used as “fully grown” cups.
Their capacity measures between 1 oz to 4 oz.
Essentially, the cup is never filled up the brim but about 1/2 or 3/4.
So, a cup with capacity for 2 oz will usually be serve the amount of one to one and a half ounces.

The art of tea appreciation in Chinese is termed as ‘pin cha’ (品茶).
The word ‘pin’ (品)  has a complimentary meaning.
It often denotes a person having good taste.
This person is described as ‘pin wei’ (品味) and a person with ‘pin ge’ (品格).
Chinese characters or 'hanzi' are not words but they correspond to the spoken syllable that has a distinct meaning.
The words usually have 2 or more characters.
The word ‘pin’ is written with 3 ‘kou’(口) ( chinese character for 3 mouthfuls) - 品.

In the southern region of China, the tea culture practices what is termed as
a small ‘pin ming bei’ (品茗杯), meaning tea appreciation cup.
 The drinker is expected to be consume the tea within 3 sips or mouthfuls.
The logic behind this is as follows:

The First Sip
- to clear the palate of any lingering tastes or sensation, while preparing the mouth for the next 2 sips.
 
The Second Sip
- to appreciate the flavor and taste of the tea

The Third Sip
- to appreciate the body and fullness of the tea, its liquor, texture, harmony of nuance in flavors, in its entirety
       

Scented Cups (wenxiangbei 聞香杯)

Scented cups are among one of the many unique tea implements in the Gong Fu Cha Dao practice.

The cup itself is not for drinking out of but used in the tea tasting/testing aspect of the Gong Fu Cha Dao practice.

The design of the cup is tall and narrow when compared to the tasting or drinking cups. 

The call for a tall cup is purely to capture the scent of the tea as well as to aerate the tea when it is poured out of the scented cup into the actual teacup. 

Aerating the tea the steeped tea awakens the favors and scent of the tea further.

Scented cups are sometimes also known as aroma cups, snifter cups or fragrance cups.

The first infusion of tea steeped is called the "infusion of the good smell."

The scented cup or snifter cup always goes along with the 1/2 oz drinking cup.

 The tea is initially poured into the scented cup.
Then from here into the drinking cup.
The empty scented cup is then lifted between the palms of hands and gently rolled, to stimulate and activate  the residual scent of the tea.
It is then held under one’s nose while gently inhaling the escaping fragrance.
 More often than not to intensify the scent emitted by the snifter cup, it is pre-scented.
This is done by pouring the first wash of tea into the scented cups.
The tea is often poured to the brim almost overflowing into the scented cup.

 Drinking cups and scented cups are usually available as complementary sets.
However, the scented cups are often sold singularly and comes in porcelain white.
This is for the viewing of the the color of the tea in as much as to experience the fragrance of the tea.

During the Chinese Cultural Revolution - fall of 1966, the PRC went through a culture purge.
The core of the idea was to have a utopic society rise like a Phoenix from the ashes of the old society.
Old habits, manners, customs and culture of the past was to be fully eradicated - the PRC wanted to wipe out the history of old China.
Much of ancient China's relics, traditional objects, books and intellectual property were sacrificed to the Red Guards.
Taiwan became the guardian of Chinese Culture in this carnage.
She became a great cultural influence to the PRC who were looking at restoration of their culture.
Taiwan also played a major development in the restoration of Chinese tea culture in the 1970's.

The introduction of the of the aroma cup was purely a Taiwanese modification to the Gong Fu Cha Dao.
Introduced in the 1980's as part of a traditional tea set up.
It was coined as wenxiangbei 聞香杯 - the aroma cup.
Elongated and intended purely to accentuate the fragrance of the tea being served and then used to transfer the served liquid into the drinker's own teacup.
The entire idea was to create an experience for the drinker - the intense fragrance emitted from the residual liquor that clung to the inner surface of the cup.
It became the an important implement as part of the Gong Fu Cha Dao setup - a classic tea ware for the tea connoisseur.

Reference:

A Quintessential Invention : Genesis of a Cultural Orthodoxy in East Asian Tea Appreciation 

By Loretta Kim 金由美, Hong Kong Baptist University and Lawrence Zhang 張樂翔, City University of Hong Kong 

ISSN 1833-8461
No. 29, March 2012

Puer from Kwong Chen Beverage Trading

This was the puer that was purchased at the kwong Chen Beverage Trading in Singapore.

It was their 10 year old plus loose Puer that cost Singapore $10.00 per 100 grams.

The brew was clear but with slight particles.

It has a very earthy and robust flavor.

The scent was of damp earth after the rain.

Kwong Chen Beverage Trading

Most Chinese of Cantonese descent that patronize this store was probably brought here by their grandparents.

This is one of the older tea shops in Singapore - established in 1935.

This is Singapore's tea heritage and Chinatown's heritage store.

This merchant carries puer teas and Dragonwell.

They sell prepackaged teas in tins and their Puer is from Yunnan and Dragonwell tea is from Shanghai.

The owner was very friendly and chatted about tea and how there are those who drink tea and don't understand what they are drinking. 

She further noted that Puer tea that she sells is quite old and has a distinctive earthy overtones, which many are not familiar with consequently think the tea is of poor quality.

The least expensive puer she has in the store was a loose Puer that was over 10 years old and cost Singapore $10.00 per 100 grams.

The teapots in the store were quite old as well and from YiXing. 

So, if you are looking for some old YiXing teapots this might well be the place to seek these gems out.

Tea Getaways in Singapore - Enjoy Tea

A lovely tea shop tucked away in Chinatown.

Chinese New Year preparations are at its heights in Chinatown.

The store was hidden in the midst of the tents that are being erected outside the stores along Sago Street.

This happens every Chinese New Year for the seasonal vendors.

The owner was also busy with his preparations as he was unloading inventory but was gracious to allow me to take some photographs of his store for this article.

It was a lovely store that carried an array of teas in particular some Puers and religious Buddhist paraphernalia.

It was one of the more modern style tea houses in Singapore.

The tea accoutrement are more contemporary in style and they had a lovely collection of tea trays and bamboo scoops. The teapots were more streamlined and functional.

The incense pots are some of the Buddhist and Art of Tea paraphernalia that the store carries.

As we were leaving, we were greeted by a beautiful Mulberry plant and its seasonal yield.

Location of this store is:

Enjoy Tea

18 Sago Street, #01-01

Singapore 059017